The season's first asparagus, hailed by Marcel Proust for their "celestial shades," trace their roots to Argenteuil. While factory suburbs now produce mostly tough "claws," premium varieties—labeled Argenteuil—are cultivated in fertile regions like Sologne and Alsace.
As harbingers of spring, these elegant spears are culinary treasures and natural remedies. Pliny the Elder praised cultivated asparagus for soothing the stomach while acting as a reliable diuretic.
Master cooking them: Peel carefully, rinse in cold water, drain well, and tie into bundles.
Bring salted water to a boil (25 grams salt per 4 liters water per kilo of asparagus). Immerse bundles upright, with water just below the tips. Return to a boil and cook 12 minutes for crisp "al dente" heads. Untie, drain, and serve wrapped in a warm folded towel.
Asparagus shines with countless sauces, split between vinaigrette and melted butter styles. Try this inventive alternative:
Ingredients: 3 egg yolks, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 380g butter, 1 blood orange, 2 pinches grated orange zest, 1 pinch salt.
1/ Cook asparagus as above.
2/ Whisk 3 egg yolks, gradually adding 1 tablespoon cold water, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and 1 pinch salt.
3/ Set saucepan in a bain-marie over low heat. Stir nonstop with a wooden spoon until frothy and creamy. Incorporate 30g half-melted butter, then continue until 300g total butter is blended.
4/ As it thickens, add cold water drops (2 tablespoons total), then season with 1 teaspoon lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
5/ Stir in strained juice from 1 blood orange and 2 pinches grated zest.
6/ Serve asparagus in the towel with sauce in a boat.
