While the 17th century—France's Grand Siècle—may not rank as our finest culinary era, it delivered a captivating, possibly tragic tale in gastronomic history.
Louis de Béchameil, a key secretary to King Louis XIV, was both influential and immensely wealthy. Did his epicurean prowess fuel his success? Even the sharp-tongued Saint-Simon approved: "He had been in business but kept a good reputation, as much as those who amass fortunes can."
One day, this courtier—likely with his chef's aid—invented a sauce bearing his name. The original Béchamel featured shallots! Palace wisdom intervened, banishing this intruder (much like Madame de Maintenon). Modern Béchamel, which we cherish today, has no shallots. They waited nearly two centuries for triumph in Béarnaise sauce.
Here's Louis de Béchameil's authentic recipe: In a saucepan, combine three or four knobs of butter with chopped parsley, spring onions, shallots, salt, cracked pepper, a pinch of nutmeg, and flour to bind. Moisten with rich cream and simmer to thicken.
Excerpt from La Gastronomie Française by Raymond Dumay (Stock, 1969).
