La Sirène restaurant in Asnières - Vincent Van Gogh (1853-1890). Paris-Orsay Museum.
La Mère Fournaise, Renoir and the others, between small dishes and boaters...
This idyllic spot on Île de Chatou was once a haven for canoeists. The spear-jousting tournaments whetted appetites, prompting Louise Fournaise to launch her kitchen. Her restaurant soon became a favorite of Renoir and fellow art lovers.
Diners savored eel matelote, fried gudgeons, spit-roasted goose, and Louveciennes artichokes, all paired with Argenteuil wine.
Closed for nearly 40 years, the villa was rescued from ruin by Chatou's town hall and residents. Today, it preserves original walls adorned with period frescoes, likely by Renoir, Monet, and friends.
Now fully restored, it mirrors Renoir's Luncheon of the Boating Party, featuring the striking Aline. The table lacks only pear-grape compote, wine bottles, a liqueur keg, and mazagran glasses for cold coffee with seltzer.
The Impressionist historic route extends to Pontoise, Auvers, L'Isle-Adam, and Argenteuil. In Auvers-sur-Oise, Van Gogh's house offers choices like the tradition-rich Auberge Ravoux with pumpkin soup, blanquette, brandade, and pears in wine—or its cobblestoned guinguette inspired by The Restaurant of the Siren in Asnières.
In Giverny, Les Nymphes serves Norman classics from chef Vincent Amemine, drawing from Monet's Cookbooks.
Preparation: Do not gut the fish. Pat dry. Dip in milk, drain, then roll in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Pick and wash herbs, then dry thoroughly.
Cooking: Heat oil in a deep fryer. Fry herbs briefly, starting with spinach, ending with parsley. Drain on paper towels. Fry fish in small batches until golden. Drain on paper towels and keep warm. Salt lightly. Serve hot with lemon wedges and fried herbs.
Pair with green sauce.
Green Sauce: Mash 2 hard-boiled egg yolks with 1 tsp mustard. Gradually whisk in 15 cl olive oil to form mayonnaise. Add juice of 2 lemons, salt, pepper, 3 tbsp mixed chopped herbs (chervil, tarragon, chives, parsley), 1 tbsp capers, 1 tsp anchovy cream, and ½ chopped hard-boiled egg white.
Ideal small fish: roach, minnow, gudgeon, or bleak.
