In 1978, inspired by Rassam, the impresario of my friend Jean Yanne, I crafted this surprising yet revelatory dish. When prepared with impeccably fresh veal liver, it delivers an extraordinary taste experience that has stood the test of time.
For 4 people: 400 g veal liver, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 50 g allspice, 50 g ground nutmeg, 70 g green pepper, a pinch of fresh tarragon, 1 bunch chives, salt, and freshly ground pepper.
Garnish: 1 lemon, cherries in vinegar, heart of 1 curly lettuce.
Slice the liver very thinly—this step is crucial. Arrange the slices in a shallow container. On the first layer, sprinkle allspice and nutmeg, season with salt and pepper, add a touch of tarragon and green pepper, then drizzle with olive oil. Repeat layering until all slices are used.
Marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Remove from the fridge 4 hours before serving.
Divide evenly among four large plates, coating with the flavorful marinade from the bottom of the container. Sprinkle with finely chopped chives.
Garnish each plate with half a lemon slice, a few pickled cherries, and a white tip of curly lettuce.
Serve chilled but not ice-cold, with toasted country bread. Pair with a Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet for perfection.
Recipe by Chef Hubert, from the book Natural Cooking with Olive Oil, published by Vecchi.
